Alternatives to Loose Chalk

If you have only ever used loose chalk, the switch takes a session or two to get used to. Here is what to expect:

Three white toiletry bottles with black caps on a modern bathroom counter beside a toiletry bag and brush
Fabric basket filled with white textured balls on a wooden floor beside a window

Chalk Balls

A chalk ball is a refillable cloth ball of chalk. You squeeze or rub it on your hands instead of dipping into an open bag or tub.

One study found that chalk socks did not measurably reduce airborne dust. We believe that with buy-in from the climbing community, and some small changes in chalk use habits, a combination of liquid chalk and chalk balls can meet everyone’s needs and reduce the amount of chalk in the air. We’ll be watching the air quality data closely, and if it’s not effective, then a later step could be liquid chalk only.

Three white refillable bottles with black caps on a bathroom countertop beside a toiletry bag and brush.

Liquid chalk is a mixture of powdered magnesium carbonate suspended in a solution of alcohol (such as isopropyl or ethanol) and water. It dries to leave a layer of chalk on your skin without a cloud of dust. Research on climbing gyms has found that liquid chalk reduces airborne dust (see research and links).

  • Apply it before you start climbing and let it dry for a moment.

  • Many climbers use it as a base layer and top up during a session.

  • Gyms can tell you which products they stock and suggest alcohol-free options if you have sensitive skin.

Beware Rosin / Colophony

Some liquid chalks contain thickening agents. Some are water-soluble and food-grade and relatively harmless. Unfortunately some companies are still producing liquid chalk with pine sap resins, often listed as Rosin or Colophony, or just as “thickening agent”.

This can leave a glass-like buildup on climbing holds and damage the rock when used outdoor. If you find products with Colophony for sale in NZ, please let us know so we can help educate the importer!

Liquid Chalk

Close-up of a person holding chalk-covered hands behind a dusty glass window
Close-up of a person holding chalk-covered hands behind a dusty glass window

Habits that help

  • Skip the chalk clap! Rub your hands together or squeeze a chalk ball instead

  • Keep your chalk ball closed and in a chalkbag when not in use.

  • Fill and refill chalk balls carefully and ask the gym staff for help or advice if you need it

FAQ

  • Not into gyms that are part of the initiative once the trial starts. Many gyms will help you transition beforehand, so check with your home gym. They may be able to swap your loose chalk out for a chalk ball or help bag it up for you.

  • Gyms will be provide low-cost refillable chalk balls, empty sacks and/or refillable liquid chalk containers. Many or all of these will be cheaper than normal chalk options. Ask your gym about what is on offer.

  • Climbers differ, and it can take a little time to find what suits you, but the difference in performance of a liquid chalk and chalk sock combo compared to loose chalk is very slight. Give it a try, find the brand that works best for you and feel free to ask the staff for tips.

  • The first step is a three-month trial. We will look at the results, and at feedback from climbers, before deciding what comes next.

  • This is genuinely about improving our gyms and the health of our staff and customers!

    Some participating gyms do sell their own brand of chalk products, including liquid chalk and chalk balls, and may supply other gyms. We are open about that, and you are always welcome to use any product that meets your gym’s policy.